So rather than have a bunch of subsections that don't have any traffic and make the place look empty, we'll just put it all in here, and then start breaking it apart later when there are a ton of posts. Thx!!
Here's a little bit of tech, something that doesn't get addressed when you buy a lift kit. It's probably worse when using new springs and not just lift blocks. The park brake cables become too short to compensate for the lift. It was a relatively easy fix to relocate the brackets, and the old cables were pretty sticky and/or rigged up so from the mid cable back, they got replaced.T
What I decided on was to cut the angle brackets off the frame and weld them directly to the spring hanger. Two large rivets hold them on. Then I straightened the brackets and attached them with the mighty Miller Trailblazer 250. They're about 2 1/4" lower than what the factory location was. Now there's enough slack for articulation. Both rear cables were replaced. New ones ran me around $8 bucks each. These are Raybestos brand.
The other issue was having a way to attach the new mid cable to the rear cables. On the one side I had a correct factory bracket, the other side used cable clamps. I used a piece of 1/8" by 1 1/4" strap to fab up a similar bracket. I started with a 8"overall piece. Drilled a hole in the center large enough for the cable ends to pass through. drilled a hole on either side 1 1/2" from the end large enough for the cables to pass, but smaller than the swedged on end. Then I bent the bracket using a vise and hammer, The dimensions are 4" overall, with a 1" bend and another 1" angle bend to mimic the look of the factory bracket. After bending was compete, I use a wide cut off disc on an angle grinder to complete a notch from the center hole to the end holes I drilled earlier. Boom, working park brake. Nice to have on a 4 speed truck.